Château des Tourettes Vin de France 18 de Moyenne Blanc (6 Bottles) Rhone, France

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Clients who go way back with us will remember Guffens’ deliciously quirky multi-vintage blend, Au Fil du Temps. Finally, it is back on the menu, now with a new name and label. For those new to this wine, it works something like a perpetual blend (as opposed to a true solera), whereby the mother base is refreshed each year with new vintage wines, while a similar percentage is bottled off to order.

For those new to Guffens’ multi-vintage wines, they are crafted something like a perpetual blend (as opposed to a true solera), whereby the base is refreshed each year with new vintage wines. At the same time, a similar percentage is bottled off to order. Marsanne-based, with decreasing amounts of Roussanne, Viognier, Chardonnay, Semillon and Sauvignon, the juice is stored in 200-hl variable capacity tanks on lees. Hence, the wine stays fresh and develops slowly. This, alongside the different varietal proportions added each year, means there is a degree of vintage variation with each new bottling.

Expect a gluggable potpourri of chalky yellow fruits from the Roussanne, the waxy touch of Marsanne and the brioche-like complexity of Chardonnay, with a pulse of preserved lemon and white pepper balancing out the fleshy structure. It finishes fresh with a pinch of food-friendly phenolics, even if the wine is delicious all on its own.

The aged material brings complexity and texture, and the young wines bring freshness and verve. It really works. This particular bottling is based on the 2018 vintage; hence, the name (moyenne means ‘the average’).

The idea behind the blend is quite matter of fact. Guffens simply felt he could produce—from a palette of vintages—an inexpensive bistro white that would taste greater than the sum of its parts. It’s made up from his pressings and young vines and other parcels that Guffens doesn’t know what to do with.

Marsanne-based, with decreasing amounts of Roussanne, Viognier, Chardonnay, Semillon and Sauvignon, the juice is stored in 200-hl variable capacity tanks, on lees, so the wine stays fresh and develops slowly. This, alongside the different varietal proportions added each year, means that there is a degree of vintage variation with each new bottling.

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Description

About Château des Tourettes

Jean-Marie Guffens is not one for twiddling his thumbs. Leaving Flanders in 1976, Guffens first established his iconic Mâconnais estate, Domaine Guffens-Heynen, in 1979. Maison Verget, the bespoke negoce operation, followed soon after. With both properties well established, Guffens turned his gaze south.

In the late 1990s, Jean-Marie Guffens and Maine Heynen began searching for a perfect doer-upper in the hills of southern France. Guffens had long felt the producers of this area were guilty of underselling the potential of their terroir. He believed that, as he had done in Mâcon, he could make a statement regarding the kind of quality that could be accomplished. In 1997, the couple found their perfect property a few kilometres from the beautiful Roman market town of Apt, in the foothills of the stunning Luberon mountain chain.

One of the key selling points was a terroir rich in limestone and, at 420 metres it was high above sea level, so the vines would benefit from cool nights, and therefore slower maturation and flavour development. The other selling points according to Guffens—the scenery and the climate!

Guffens immediately set about revitalising the estate’s dilapidated facilities and run-down vineyards, which had been damaged by years of chemical treatments. Tourettes’ 14 hectares under vine were replanted with massale selections, including Chardonnay and Cabernet vines, meaning his wines would be excluded from the Côtes du Luberon appellation (no skin off Guffens’s nose). Then the cellar was fitted out with his modified vertical press, concrete tanks and barrels from Verget, creating a boutique Burgundian-style cellar in Provence.

For many years Guffens has released an ever-evolving, deliciously motley collection of red and white bottlings from the Tourettes estate. According to Jean-Marie’s whims, many wines could easily not have the same label two years in a row. Even we have found it hard to follow at times, but Guffens has now shifted focus to a more streamlined range, including a premium tier called Tinus, named after his grandfather, Martinus. In short, it marks a new era for Château des Tourettes.

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