Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2022 (6 Bottles) Lirac, France

by Fine Wine Cellars

$902.00 GST Included

AUSTRALIA WIDE SHIPPING INCLUDED

La Revue du Vin de France has written that Marcoux whites “regularly establish themselves among the most beautiful of the appellation; cultivation has a lot to do with it”. Naturally we concur. The standard of the viticulture and the quality of the sites have a great deal to do with how often this wine delivers outstanding quality.

In terms of its individual character, the first thing to say about Marcoux’s blanc is that it’s atypically Roussanne-dominant (up to 70%), blended with Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc and Clairette. Most of the Roussanne and Bourboulenc hails from two parcels: Les Esqueirons where the cool, limestone-based soils are perfect for white grapes, and Les Bosquets, where the Bourboulenc brings citric freshness and drive to the layered Roussanne. The rest of the grapes come from parcels of Grenache Blanc and Clairette, which are co-planted in predominantly red sites. Marcoux currently farms a total of only one hectare of white grapes, although a further fifth of a hectare of Clairette is due to come online this year.

The grapes were whole-bunch pressed and fermented naturally in mostly steel tanks. An ever-increasing portion of the wine is now also being raised in low-impact Stockinger cask. As always, to further underline the wine’s purity and freshness there was no bâtonnage.

Following a series of warm seasons, Southern Rhone whites have embraced the fresh 2021 vintage with open arms. Marcoux’s gift to the firmament is a chiselled and savoury white Rhône, which seamlessly blends glycerol richness and mineral energy with alluring flavours of white flowers and white stone fruit. The finish is filled with light. Even as a young wine, this is riveting. Sophie recommends drinking this either within two or three years of release (before the wine closes down), or waiting for at least six or seven years, when the wine will reawaken from its slumber. It will live and develop for decades.

Frankly, Marcoux’s white is one of Châteauneuf’s best. La Revue du Vin de France agrees with us, writing: “[The domaine’s white wines] regularly establish themselves among the most beautiful of the appellation; cultivation has a lot to do with it.” The first thing to say is that it’s atypically Roussanne-dominant (up to 70%), blended with Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc and Clairette.

Most of the Roussanne and Bourboulenc hails from two parcels: Les Esqueirons, where the cool, limestone-based soils are perfect for white grapes; and Les Bosquets, where the Bourboulenc brings citric freshness and drive to the layered Roussanne. The rest of the grapes come from parcels of Grenache Blanc and Clairette, which are co-planted in predominantly red sites. Marcoux currently farms only one hectare of white grapes, although another fifth of a hectare of Clairette will come on stream soon.

In the cellar, the grapes are pressed as whole bunches and ferment naturally in mostly steel tanks. An ever-increasing portion of the wine is now raised in low-impact Stockinger cask, and Sophie Armenier’s son Vincent Estevenin has also introduced some sandstone amphora into the mix.

As always, there is no bâtonnage or malolactic conversion and even in warmer-than-average years, the wine always retains an outstanding balance between volume and freshness. Very aromatic this year (think spring meadows and citrus fruits), it offers a fabulous balance of textural fruits countered by chalky structure, stony depth and terrific zesty length. Great class and crazy delicious.

It should live magnificently, developing more complexity, but it’s just a wonderfully delicious drink now.

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About Domaine de Marcoux

Given the marked change in style heralded by the cool 2021 vintage, the precocious 2020 harvest may find itself grouped in a power trio with the preceding two years. Yet, while the ’20 vintage is clearly another superb year for Southern Rhône, in our experience the wines bear only a slight resemblance to the decadent 2018s and supercharged 2019s. And, this grower’s 2020 wines certainly have a personality all of their own. Sophie Armenier speaks of her latest release Châteauneuf as “elegant, supple and balanced, combining freshness and delicacy”. The Marcoux 2020s are wines of vibrancy, precision and real drinkability, with silky tannins and graceful acidity contributing to subtle structures: they are deep and flavourful wines without being colossal.

The Côtes-du-Rhône and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape hail from 2021, a perplexing year in the vineyards that made the Rhône’s recent harvests look serene. Mas de Libian’s Hélène Thibon has described this year as a throwback to her childhood’s cooler and lower alcohol vintages, while across both the north and south divides, Michel Chapoutier has talked about the “almost-forgotten characteristics” of his 2021 wines. What this means for the grand vin from Marcoux remains to be seen (and Vincent Estevenin has very high hopes). Still, the story of the two cuvées below is prefaced by delicious, succulent flesh buoyed by great vitality and energy.

Alongside the classic release and the return of Marcoux’s epic Lirac, we’re delighted to offer a small museum parcel of Marcoux’s 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. On release, Sophie Armenier compared this fine year to 2001, another terrific cellaring vintage. When it first hit the market, the wine’s combination of good natural acidity and ripe tannins promised a successful life ahead and, in short, this 2015 is in a very good place.

For those new to this grower, this tiny, artisanal domaine was the first in Châteauneuf to convert to biodynamics some 30 years ago. While the prime focus is given to the vineyards, Sophie Armenier’s subtle hand in the cellar must also take some credit: natural fermentation; gentle extractions; concrete fermentation; and the absence of any new oak all play a vital role in quality and balance.

Fine Wine Cellars

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