Domaine François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2021 (12 Bottles) Touraine, France

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Les Choisilles is named after the type of black flint abundant in the parcels that gift this wine. The main vineyards involved are Les Epinais, La Taille aux Loups and Clos Renard. The bedrock across these sites is tuffeau (limestone), and the vines range in age from 30 to 90 years. Chidaine notes that these deep-rooted vines transmit an elegant minerality from the black flint soils.

Les Choisilles is named after the type of black flint abundant in the parcels that gift this wine. The main vineyards involved are Les Epinais, La Taille aux Loups and Clos Renard. The bedrock across these sites is tuffeau (limestone), and the vines range in age from 30 to 90 years. From 2021, Pierre Chidaine has used the oldest vines in Les Epinais (now over 60 years old) to make a single lieu-dit wine. In style Les Choisilles is a concentrated, focused dry wine that often needs several years to develop.

There is a touch more extract than in the Clos du Breuil. As the wine saturates your palate you notice the tighter acidity of 2021 and more of the struck-flint smokiness so typical of the Choisilles rocks. It’s another alluring, pure-fruited Chenin, full of chew and bite, with waves of creamy stone fruit and mandarin shouldered by energetic acidity and pungent mineral freshness. Smokin’.

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About Domaine François Chidaine

How else can we praise this inspiring Loire Valley grower? We’ve exhausted our thesaurus of superlatives. Instead, let’s hear from the experts: “Chidaine is one of the world’s finest craftsmen in the medium of white wine” (David Schildknecht); “The Pope of Montlouis and Vouvray—just a sublimely great producer” (Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay); “There are times when I can imagine drinking only his wines for the rest of my life” (Peter Liem); and “The modern ascendence of Montlouis essentially wouldn’t have happened were it not for François and Manuela Chidaine” (Jon Bonné). You get the picture.

In other news from the domaine, François and Manuela’s daughter, Alice Chidaine, has taken on a key role in the cellar. Before returning to Montlouis, Alice apprenticed with Clos Rougeard and Dagueneau in the Loire Valley and worked vintage with Chris Alheit in Swartland, gaining a first-class education. Alice’s younger brother Pierre is also making his mark in viticulture. Both siblings are crafting their own wines within the portfolio—Alice with Les Grillonnières and Pierre with the domaine’s newest single-site cuvée, Les Epinays. These wines are featured below. If we were François, we might be a little nervous; the kids are doing a fantastic job! Additionally, the family continues to invest in the trendy Wineglobes, with François appreciating the extended fermentations and precision these glass vessels allow.

Today, we feature wines from two contrasting vintages. After several warm seasons, 2021 marked a return to the chiselled and racy Chidaine style of 2010 and 2014, with a touch more ripeness. Late last year, François expressed his love for the ‘coiled’ style of the year and believes these wines will come into their own with a few years of aging—though we think they’re already quite appealing. In contrast, 2022 was sunnier with an earlier harvest. Well-timed rains and cooler nights later in the season have imbued Chidaine’s ’22s with terrific freshness and vibrancy. Expect luminous yet beautifully structured dry Chenins with excellent density, ripe acidity, and a hint of phenolic tension.

If you’re a wine enthusiast looking for exceptional bottles to add to your collection, these offerings from Chidaine are not to be missed. Experience the exquisite craftsmanship and distinct terroir of the Loire Valley in every sip. Cheers!

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