François Chidaine Montlouis Brut Nature 2019 (6 Bottles) Loire Valley, France

$362.00 GST Included

AUSTRALIA WIDE SHIPPING INCLUDED

Yes, there are probably Champagnes around the market at this price, but you get what you pay for: those Champagnes come from high yields, chemical viticulture and industrial-scale wine production. This wine, on the other hand is made entirely from old-vine, biodynamically farmed, hand-harvested fruit, cropped at a very low 35 hectolitres per hectare (almost unheard of in Champagne). The base wine was also wild-fermented in old 600 litre barrels.

To be specific, this Montlouis non-dosé is 100% Chenin Blanc from the flinty (les perruches) sites of Le Volagray and Les Landes, as well as the more clay and limestone dominant (aubuis) sites of Clos Renard and Les Epinais. Chidaine picks his grapes for sparkling wine at about 11.5 to 12.5 degrees of potential alcohol (i.e., flavour-ripe) as he wants his terroir to shine through.

After 12 months bottle age, this offers the wonderful aromatics and flavours of crunchy pear, hops and freshly cut white flowers. The palate is wonderfully vibrant, creamy textured, and shot through with saline energy and smoky complexity. The finish tapers to a long, chalky, mineral-infused close; something we’ve seldom encountered in Chenin-based sparkling wines. Although labelled as a NV, this is, in fact, a 2017 vintage wine.

“It started off with a cool, salty and minerally nose. This is a precursor for the very reserved style at the start of the palate, although this broadens out through the middle revealing notes of perfumed chalk, citrus pith, smoke and minerals. A tense style, correct, charming and broad. A very fine result.” 93 points, Chris Kissack, The Wine Doctor

“Rich and fruity, but crisp, displaying tingly acidity on the palate. Flavors and aromas of pineapple, golden apple, melon and beeswax are underlain by herbal and mineral notes. Incredibly dry and complex” 92 points, Jason Wilson, Vinous

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REVIEWS

“[The domaine] is a must for any lover of great Loire Chenin,” *** Le Classement 2021, La Revue du Vin de France (One of only seven Loire Valley producers with this highest rating)

“If you admire purity in chenin blanc, this is an address to remember.” Josh Raynolds, Vinous

“François Chidaine is one of my favorite winemakers in the world. There are times when I can imagine drinking only his wines for the rest of my life.” Peter Liem, peterliem.com

“You have to look to the historical collections of regional leaders Foreau and Huet to find comparable consistently high quality, making it clear that Chidaine is one of the world’s finest craftsmen in the medium of white wine, not to mention a continuing source of amazing value.” David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

TASTING NOTES
Let’s cut to the chase. This is Chenin Blanc at its zenith, tasting nothing like the stereotype of the grape variety, but rather acting as a conduit through which the vineyards can express themselves. These are wines brimming with energy, texture and great intensity of flavour; the kind of wines that unequivocally transport you to the patch of dirt from where they were grown. As a collective, the wines from Chidaine offer a remarkably pure and vivid expression of their respective terroirs.

François Chidaine is one of France’s most exciting white wine makers. It’s not hype – the wines are terrific and the winemaking approach is impeccable. Great vineyards managed biodynamically, ultra low yields and hands-off élevage are the order of the day here. Chidaine has achieved with Chenin what Didier Dagueneau achieved with Sauvignon: wines of staggering texture and complexity. (It might provide an idea of Chidaine’s standing in the Loire, that when Benjamin Dagueneau wanted to gain experience as a younger man, he went to work with Chidaine).

Montlouis is Vouvray’s little brother, sitting directly across the Loire river in France’s North. The analogy of siblings is a good one as the rivalry between these two regions is intense. However, as Montlouis is much smaller in size (400 hectares as opposed to 1800 for Vouvray) and considering most of the wine is consumed in France, Montlouis is less well-known.

But François Chidaine is quickly changing this. He is one of the masters of French white wine in general, and Chenin Blanc in particular. He has driven a renaissance in Montlouis, produced Vouvray to challenge that region’s very best, and has also resuscitated of one of Vouvray’s most hallowed vineyards, the Clos Baudoin, which is now a Chidaine monopole. One of the remarkable aspects of Chidaine is that despite his success, his prices remain remarkably fair. As the Schildnecht quote above suggests, these are some of the finest value great wines (not to mention authentic wines of terroir) on the market.

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