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Although well suited to production in the Yarra Valley, sauvignon blanc is only sparingly planted, with most growers eschewing it in favour of other varieties. Squitchy Lane planted sauvignon blanc back in the 80s with an unusual clone that has defied identification. The clone is very low yielding and tends to produce wine with crispness and purity of flavour.
The sauvignon blanc at Squitchy Lane has been made in a French style, similar to those in Sancerre and labelled as Fumé Blanc to indicate that it has spent time in oak. The aromatic fruit flavours persist but the time spent in an oak barrel gives the wine depth, complexity and the ability to age.
Tasting Notes:
A very lovely and delicate style of Fumé Blanc, the soft toast, and flinty highlights from barrel fermentation in seasoned French oak compliment the varietal passionfruit, green apple, yuzu and snow pea aromas. The time on lees add a richer note with almond meal and biscuit complexity. The zesty citrus acid and the lingering finish makes this a superb match with fried whitebait or fresh goats cheese.
Fumé Blanc is a quirky one – made with Sauvignon Blanc grapes, but fermented and aged in oak; subduing the usual punchy aromas of the variety. Here they show up as juicy lemon and grapefruit, a hint of kiwi fruit and pineapple skin. Seasoned oak adds a whisp of sweet baking spices and a moreish textural complexity. This allows the fruit to shine through but in a way that offers up a bigger range of food pairings. The bright, spritzy acidity is supported by the full gamut of a citrus orchard on the palate, and a lingering savoury salinity. 92 points, Nicole Bilson, winepilot.com.au
Winemaking:
Hand-picked fruit was then whole bunch pressed, barrel fermented and then aged in old French oak for 6 months. Barrel stirring once a week, no MLF. 112 dozen produced, bottled 25th August 2020.
Even though this has been made in the style of a Fumé Blanc, it is the Sauvignon Blanc fruit flavours really come to the fore with aromas of gooseberry, grapefruit, and citrus with a minerally, flinty edge. The use of oak has given the wine depth and richness and added a layer of complexity. A beautiful wine to drink now, it will mellow and develop over the next six years in the cellar.
Owner Mike Fitzpatrick’s interest in wine was first kindled when he was studying at Oxford in the 1970s. His future father-in-law, himself an Oxford Don provided Mike’s introduction to wine and the proximity to France allowed further exploration. The great wines of Europe proved to be a revelation.
Mike returned to Australia with his future wife Helen on his arm and the idea of a winery in the back of his mind. However, a successful football career with Carlton was beckoning and as Captain, he guided the football club to two premierships.
In the nineties, the search for a vineyard began. With the time Mike had spent in Melbourne, the Yarra Valley had seemed the logical area to establish a boutique winery. “I always wanted to be involved in a winery that was in the boutique style; in other words, big enough to make an impact, but small enough to allow for hands-on at every aspect of the wine-making process,”
Nestled in a corner of the Yarra Valley, a stone’s throw from Coldstream Hills and Yarra Yering, was the Log Creek Vineyard. Planted in 1982, the six hectares of mature vines had been established as a grower vineyard, with fruit sold to other producers. Naturally, Mike named the vineyard Squitchy Lane recalling where he had lived in Oxford, where he first began his foray into wine.
There was much to accomplish before the first wines could be released. The vineyard was planted to traditional Yarra Valley varieties - cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, merlot and cabernet franc. Although the vineyard was well established it had been created with a focus on quantity. To improve the quality of the vineyard Mike set about converting the vineyard trellis system and instigated a vine improvement program.
Mike realised that the lessons learned on the football field were every bit as important in wine production – discipline, resilience, attention to detail and teamwork.
Since the first release under the Squitchy lane Label, our aim has been to produce wine that exhibit the characteristics of the vineyard site and the influence of the particular vintage. The wines are all hand – made, using traditional methods. Fruit is hand-picked when the grapes are flavour ripe and the optimal balance has been reached.
