Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015 (6 Bottles) Lirac, France

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One of the classics! We ADORE Marcoux! Domaine de Marcoux was a pioneer in organic and biodynamic farming long before it was fashionable and produces wines of elegance and restraint, not qualities usually associated with CdP. The average vine age is 50 years old and they grow primarily Grenache in a variety of soil types and areas.

Raised mostly in concrete, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape features gentle strawberry-raspberry fruit and loads of subtle spice. It’s medium to full-bodied, marked by silky tannins and a long finish. It’s not the most powerful, concentrated wine, but it’s certainly one of the most elegant. It’s 85% Grenache, with the balance a mix of Mourvedre, Syrah and Cinsault.

Ex-Cellar Museum Release. This is now in a lovely spot, with some developing fruit characters, a touch of umami-rich mushroom and undergrowth, and a seasoning of spice. It remains vibrantly fresh, with lively acidity and well-knitted structure. It finishes strong and complex with a sweet/savoury twist. It is drinking very well now but has years of life ahead of it. The 2015 was raised in a blend of 80% concrete vat and 20% tronconique cuves for 18 months and was bottled unfiltered. The notes below are taken form the wine’s initial release.

“Ruby-red. Energetic, mineral-accented aromas of ripe red and dark berries, complicated by suggestions of incense and pungent flowers. Broad and fleshy on entry, then more taut in the midpalate, offering pliant black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a suggestion of five-spice powder. Finishes very long and sweet, featuring slow-building tannins, a touch of smokiness and repeating red fruit character. This wine is shaping up to be an outstanding “basic” Châteauneuf.” 92-94 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous

“Around 10 different lieux-dit around Châteauneuf, most are fermented separately, then assembled after vinification and élévage. All harvested in small cases, all destemmed. Really rich and expressive, mostly strawberry but with some lively blackberry. Full-bodied, lovely sweetness of fruit and buzzing acidity. Tannins are very fine, it’s already harmonious. Full of energy and life. Some slightly animal hints. Finishes savoury. 2018-2027.” 93 points, Tim Atkin MW, 2015 Rhône Report

“…The palate sets off immediately on a graceful wave of red cherry fruits, which have a nourishing quality. They continue deep into the finish, where there are classy tannins waiting. It’s long and sustained, authentic, STGT Châteauneuf.” ★★★★(★) John Livingstone-Learmonth, Drinkrhone.com

“Raised mostly in concrete, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape features gentle strawberry-raspberry fruit and loads of subtle spice. It’s medium to full-bodied, marked by silky tannins and a long finish. It’s not the most powerful, concentrated wine, but it’s certainly one of the most elegant. It’s 85% Grenache, with the balance a mix of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault.” 93 points, Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate

Description

About Domaine de Marcoux

Given the marked change in style heralded by the cool 2021 vintage, the precocious 2020 harvest may find itself grouped in a power trio with the preceding two years. Yet, while the ’20 vintage is clearly another superb year for Southern Rhône, in our experience the wines bear only a slight resemblance to the decadent 2018s and supercharged 2019s. And, this grower’s 2020 wines certainly have a personality all of their own. Sophie Armenier speaks of her latest release Châteauneuf as “elegant, supple and balanced, combining freshness and delicacy”. The Marcoux 2020s are wines of vibrancy, precision and real drinkability, with silky tannins and graceful acidity contributing to subtle structures: they are deep and flavourful wines without being colossal.

The Côtes-du-Rhône and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape hail from 2021, a perplexing year in the vineyards that made the Rhône’s recent harvests look serene. Mas de Libian’s Hélène Thibon has described this year as a throwback to her childhood’s cooler and lower alcohol vintages, while across both the north and south divides, Michel Chapoutier has talked about the “almost-forgotten characteristics” of his 2021 wines. What this means for the grand vin from Marcoux remains to be seen (and Vincent Estevenin has very high hopes). Still, the story of the two cuvées below is prefaced by delicious, succulent flesh buoyed by great vitality and energy.

Alongside the classic release and the return of Marcoux’s epic Lirac, we’re delighted to offer a small museum parcel of Marcoux’s 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. On release, Sophie Armenier compared this fine year to 2001, another terrific cellaring vintage. When it first hit the market, the wine’s combination of good natural acidity and ripe tannins promised a successful life ahead and, in short, this 2015 is in a very good place.

For those new to this grower, this tiny, artisanal domaine was the first in Châteauneuf to convert to biodynamics some 30 years ago. While the prime focus is given to the vineyards, Sophie Armenier’s subtle hand in the cellar must also take some credit: natural fermentation; gentle extractions; concrete fermentation; and the absence of any new oak all play a vital role in quality and balance.

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