Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2021 (6 Bottles) Lirac, France

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Christened by Robert Parker as “one of the world’s truly magnificent wines”, this rarity is one of the most limited and sought-after wines of Châteauneuf. The fruit comes from three crown-jewel parcels of exceptionally old vines in Charbonnières and Les Esqueirons. Charbonnières (planted in 1900) lies on the northern side of the Crau plateau, mostly on sandy soils with molasse sandstone. The vines are nearly all Grenache with a few rows of Mourvèdre. The plot in Les Esqueirons lies behind the ruins of the famous château on the western side of the hill. Here the Grenache vines (and some Roussanne) are rooted in limestone and white clay. Some were planted in 1900 and the rest in 1949.

The fruit was treated in the same minimalistic fashion as the Classique. Thus, what you taste over and above that wine simply reflects the fruit of these ancient vines and their terroirs. There was no new oak used throughout the élevage; the wines were naturally fermented and raised for 18 months in concrete and large oak foudre before being bottled unfiltered. The Vieilles Vignes is only bottled in great vintages, which in a way, says it all.

“Impressive depth of colour for the vintage, this is extremely round, fresh, clear and well-defined. Tannins are present and fairly strict in style, but they’re ripe, and all in all this is exceptionally promising. Not huge in fruit or body, but well-balanced and precise. From 120-year-old vines planted on north-facing clay and sand lieux-dits of Charbonnières and Esquières. Fermented in concrete, aged in foudre.” 97 points, Matt Walls, Decanter

“As always, it’s 100% Grenache brought up in a mix of concrete tank and foudre. Its deep ruby/purple hue is followed by a brilliant array of blueberries, violets, and pepper, and it’s full-bodied, has a seamless, elegant mouthfeel, nicely integrated acidity, and a great finish. I’d put it up with the top handful of wines in the vintage.” 95-97 points, Jeb Dunnuck

Description

About Domaine de Marcoux

Given the marked change in style heralded by the cool 2021 vintage, the precocious 2020 harvest may find itself grouped in a power trio with the preceding two years. Yet, while the ’20 vintage is clearly another superb year for Southern Rhône, in our experience the wines bear only a slight resemblance to the decadent 2018s and supercharged 2019s. And, this grower’s 2020 wines certainly have a personality all of their own. Sophie Armenier speaks of her latest release Châteauneuf as “elegant, supple and balanced, combining freshness and delicacy”. The Marcoux 2020s are wines of vibrancy, precision and real drinkability, with silky tannins and graceful acidity contributing to subtle structures: they are deep and flavourful wines without being colossal.

The Côtes-du-Rhône and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape hail from 2021, a perplexing year in the vineyards that made the Rhône’s recent harvests look serene. Mas de Libian’s Hélène Thibon has described this year as a throwback to her childhood’s cooler and lower alcohol vintages, while across both the north and south divides, Michel Chapoutier has talked about the “almost-forgotten characteristics” of his 2021 wines. What this means for the grand vin from Marcoux remains to be seen (and Vincent Estevenin has very high hopes). Still, the story of the two cuvées below is prefaced by delicious, succulent flesh buoyed by great vitality and energy.

Alongside the classic release and the return of Marcoux’s epic Lirac, we’re delighted to offer a small museum parcel of Marcoux’s 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. On release, Sophie Armenier compared this fine year to 2001, another terrific cellaring vintage. When it first hit the market, the wine’s combination of good natural acidity and ripe tannins promised a successful life ahead and, in short, this 2015 is in a very good place.

For those new to this grower, this tiny, artisanal domaine was the first in Châteauneuf to convert to biodynamics some 30 years ago. While the prime focus is given to the vineyards, Sophie Armenier’s subtle hand in the cellar must also take some credit: natural fermentation; gentle extractions; concrete fermentation; and the absence of any new oak all play a vital role in quality and balance.

Fine Wine Cellars

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